Murat's finest hour—Liebertwolktiz: the official report

I had declared a clear Franco-Polish victory after the initial weekend game.

We had defeated the Allied centre and left and occupied the majority of the towns that were worth victory points. I expected that Klenau's newly arrived Austrians would be 'too many to die and too few to win'. The fellas were not as convinced as I was, so played the game to a conclusion over their next two Tuesday evening sessions.

Last time we had the unofficial report from Simon, who took the role of Marshal Victor in weekend game before assuming that of Marshal Murat for the conclusion. We now have the official version from Mitch, umpire and host of the game; and more, as we'll see...

The following is how Mitch saw the progress of events. I have added my captions to his photos—so all errors are mine (JF/Ed.)!

The Battle Continued Turns 9 to 12

Simon took over the French & Steve R. the Austrians.

In the initial turns the Austrian advance, on the right, was checked by the powerful gun line of the French, supported by the embedded Infantry.

Opening moves and artillery cannonade.

The heavy cavalry on the Austrian extreme right surged ahead of the main attack. First it drove off a small brigade of chasseurs & after a few turns delay, waiting for the main attack to make more ground & the numerous artillery to come up, charged the disordered Infantry on the far left of the French line. The initial charge was successful but a follow-up crashed into a line of squares & was sent reeling. The kürassiers almost routed off the field, but managed to rally & would return for a last hurrah in the closing moments of the battle.

On the Austrian left the large brigade of élite light cavalry was out-fought by the smaller brigade of chasseurs, thanks to a poor manoeuvre roll, & fell back to the base line.

Smaller brigade of French chasseurs à cheval (some heavily disguised as Prussian freiwilliger jäger; I think) bested the larger brigade of Austrian chevy-lègers and hussars (who need to learn to roll better).

However the accompanying Grenzer brigade advanced almost unnoticed & launched a charge into the flank of two of the batteries guarding the town [Liebertwolkwitz, Ed]. The batteries were overthrown & the victorious troops broke through into the town & ejected one of the defending brigades.

Overview of the battlefield, with Grenzer brigade in the centre poised to attack and enter Liebertwolkwitz.

The French immediately counter attacked but could not dislodge the Austrians.

But slow consolidation by the Austrians allowed the French to organise another attack & throw the border troops out of the town.

After this the Austrians continued to pressure the town but had trouble clearing the approaches of one brave French Line brigade.

Austrian pressure on Liebertwolkwitz. French brigade stoically holds to one sector.

Eventually the Austrians fought their way into the town & even had a chance of totally clearing out the French, but yet another counter-attack reduced their holding to a foothold in one sector.

At this point with most of the Austrian Brigades reduced to worn status & the French holding easily, with the prospect of reinforcements, Simon & Steve decided to call it a draw.

The weekend came around & I was about to pack the game away but had an inspiration. I would play out the remaining turns to see what would happen.

The Umpire Takes Over (I can’t lose) Turns 13 to 18

The King of Naples’ promised reinforcements are slow to arrive & the large cavalry & artillery force of the Austrian Advance Guard division finally scores a victory against the defending chasseurs, but not until the plucky Frenchmen rout one of the Austrian brigades attempting to envelope the town. The French are beaten back but a slow follow-up allows the late arriving Polish lancers to parry the assault.

Meanwhile in the centre the Austrians regroup & throw in several more assaults. Unexpectedly, these succeed & the French are reduced to holding one sector of the town.

Things are looking a little dicey for Murat as the enemy ‘grand battery’ is weakening his stretched left, wrecking batteries, with the still potent kürassiers preparing a charge.

In the centre Murat has not the strength to eject the, now entrenched, Austrians from the village.  So, he has concentrated his artillery there & is attempting to blast them out, or at least weaken then enough for another charge.

His one chance is to push back the Austrians that are enveloping the village from the (French) right & develop an attack there. To do this he draws reserves from his left/centre & makes use of the reinforcing Polish lancers.

The Poles prove devastating. First they throw back the Austrian Advance Guard cavalry. 

First charges of the Polish uhlans (heavily disguised as Prussian uhlans and hussars since my Polish uhlans had come home with me to receive their final touches of paint).

Then, before The Austrians can rally, charge down the Grenzers & breakthrough into the nearby infantry brigade, totally destroying it.

They are now almost behind the town. Lining up the remaining Austrian infantry.

Now would be the time for the still fresh Austrian hussars to charge into the rear of the Poles & send them back to Warsaw. But the Austrian brigadier saw things differently. The Emperor would need these hussars to cover the retreat from this, now surely lost, battle. So a cautious advance is called for instead, making sure the flanks are covered (rolls a '1' for manoeuvre).

With no interference in their rear the Poles continue to charge. Their final target is the large brigade occupying a sector of the vill’ [Liebertwolkwitz, Ed]. As this unit is so large less than half of its troops can occupy the buildings, so it is still considered to be in the open verses the lances of the Poles. Another successful charge sees it thrown back & chased, in the gathering gloom, across the front to the stalled Austrian right.

 

Emulating Los Diabolos Polacos!

Appropriately ending in the teeth of hell!

The Hungarians are the last brigade holding the town. They are pounded by three batteries at point blank range then charged by two French brigades. But they hold out, & as night has now fallen, the battle is over. 

Only one Hungarian brigade holding on in Liebertwolkwitz.

But no one told the kürassiers. They launch a final charge into the spent French left.

Last hurrah to the Austrian kürassiers.

Two brigades are sent packing & the heavy horse almost reach Murat's command post, however darkness now descends, mercifully shrouding the scene from more violence.

Austrian kürassiers at the end of their charge, almost reaching Murat's HQ (that marshal heavily disguised as Ney, since my Murat command stand had also returned home with me).

A dramatic end. I probably pushed the troops beyond that is reasonable (the Polish lancers charged for three turns in a row).

The vast variability of the dice had a large effect, with a couple of ones (the hussars & the final French charge) shifting fate in unexpected directions.

Thanks Mitch!

That was an exciting end, with some real twists. It was great to see the Polish uhlans continue to have a strong impact (and continuing to roll well)!

The final assessment (JF/Ed.)

The stoic defence of Liebertwolkwitz reported here and in Simon's earlier account, along with the earlier success in the centre and defence of the west, confirmed this as Murat's finest hour. Buoyed by this success, the Emperor eagerly awaits the coming confrontation with the Allies.

But, that is another story...

(To steal, no temporarily use, that fine sign-off of Phil from Les Riflemens!)

Such a counter-factual will have to wait until some time in the future. Deep into the future, methinks.

Thoughts on the rules

Age of Eagles (2nd edition) were Mitch's chosen rules for this game. They would not have been mine.

We had a great game, chiefly because of the group of people involved, the sensational figures and terrain. The rules are simple enough to understand and to use and we were quickly able to 'run ourselves' only needing Mitch's input to adjudicate anything 'tricky'. In fact Steve R. and I were going so well at the western end that we almost got an entire turn ahead of the rest or the laggards!

As a pure game, I'd use them again if Mitch and the Serpentine fellas want to, but keeping clearly in my mind that it's purely for a game that looks good plays well and is only a bit like I'd envisage a Napoleonic battle.

What don't I like?

Firstly, those fundamental Fire and Fury mechanics that do not sit well with me: the manoeuvre roll and the three-level status for units. Secondly the fact that the random factor (die roll) is so dominant in results. Fourthly because the rules are not well-scaled to brigade level and lastly because fundamental elements of Napoleonic warfare are not well modelled.

I want my mistakes to be my own, not because I rolled a '1' and so, irrespective of what the situation on the battlefield, my brigade refuses to move. An example of the manoeuvre roll at it's worst came on the second day of the weekend and was squarely in my favour.

I had moved two batteries up ready to unlimber in my next turn. It was a calculated risk as I needed to reinforce and to stabilise my line. Steve R's Prussian infantry were able to get close in their movement phase, but not to reach the guns. For the next turn, I needed Rob to win the initiative for the French side. On this occasion he did not. Ah well, hopefully the guns will only suffer a minor defeat and will retire/retreat limbered (a reasonable outcome and something that should be part of the specifics of an infantry v limbered artillery mêlée, but would be purely down to the dice rolls by we players). I did not need to wish for such luck, as it came in a different form.

Steve R. rolled for this brigades in his movement phase and scored a '1' for the still fresh landwehr brigade. Yeah, the fact that they were disordered did not help, but an ordered brigade would still have received a 'hold ground' result. We can dream up a story that, the exposed left flank, the look of all them guns ahead of the landwehr, cavalry threatening to their left, mobs of enemy, only being landwehr... caused them to 'think twice', but NONE of this is taken into account in the test. Simply the die roll, whether disordered, casualty 'status' and any attached or nearby senior leadership. Stupid.

The result was, my guns unlimbered, shot the sh!t out of his landwehr (because I rolled well) and... 'scratch' one landwehr brigade.

So, a marvellous victory to moi due to my superior generalship and battlefield manoeuvring? Nah. Good luck vs poor.

An example of the manoeuvre roll at it's worst: Allies win the initiative, but Steve fails the manoeuvre roll for his landwehr (centre of photo) so is unable to charge my limbered guns in front of them (left of photo). The failure was not due to the presence of my other guns and infantry, nor even of the uhlans just across the stream, but purely 'cause he rolled a '1'.

In my initiative, my two additional batteries unlimber,

...all three open fire,

and scratch one landwehr brigade.

Much of that example illustrates the predominate effect of the die roll on all combat and firing (over situation, quality of troops, morale or any other factor). There are plenty of other examples from the three reports of this game on this blog.

People who like Fire and Fury (Age of Eagles) like the fresh, worn, spent status for units. I do not. In fact, the concept has become so ubiquitous that a certain game designer who likes to incorporate mechanics from other sets of rules has included them in a recent version 2 of his set that many are besotted with.

To me it is too crude and simplistic, but then I am not after a set of rules that 'produces a game that is concluded in two to three hours'.

Age of Eagles feel and play like a set that is nominally at brigade scale, but is trying to work at battalion/regimental level. They are half-pregnant. They do not compare well with genuine brigade-scale rules such as Napoleon's Battles (which I have played numerous times) and Volley and Bayonet (which I have seen numerous reports of, I own, have read and will play as soon as I have painted some opponents for my Poles). Having read them, I will also soon be trying L'affaire d'un déjeuner (a free set of rules in four pages, plus a one-page quick reference sheet) and Valeur et Discipline (another free set, by Matt Bradley of the fabulous Pushing Tin blog). Both of these look like sets of rules for genuine brigade-scale games.

Perhaps the most glaring example of this is the way in which artillery is scaled and fired. You will have noticed all of these 'unofficial' (as Mitch termed them) grand batteries across the table/reports. This is because a battery is represented for every 6–8 guns, which gives a preponderance of artillery. I know that this was a game based on a battle from 1813, but the number of guns for the scale in the infantry was extraordinary. Add to this the fact that the fire points for artillery batteries are combined when firing and players naturally bring their (numerous) guns together to derive the greatest benefit from this.

Lastly, Age of Eagles lack much that I expect in a game-simulation of Napoleonic warfare. Skirmishers are not really represented (probably okay for the scale), the response of units (cavalry in particular) to threats or opportunities is lacking and the response of infantry to threat by cavalry is handled very strangely indeed.

So, to me, Age of Eagles are fine for a game, played in the 'right' spirit, but there are too many mechanics that do not appeal, the 'imponderable' is too dominant, they are not scaled well as brigade rules and lack much that I expect in a game-simulation of Napoleonic warfare.

 

Unofficial report of final action at Liebertwolkwitz

Vive l’empereur! Les braves held firm against the onslaught of the Kaiserlichs!

As expected, the latter threw all that they could at the legions of France, but a stoic defence and well-timed counter-attacks blunted them until they ran out of 'puff’.

Our reporter on the spot, General de Division Simon de l'Èspere-Frédom, sent us his notes and sketches from the battlefield—hastily composed, but beautifully detailed and colourful.

Summary of battlefield status is that the French had stabilised both its left and right flanks after facing threatening cavalry attacks on both sides. In the centre Klenau managed to gain a toe hold in a section of Liebertwolkwitz (Austrian centre right), but was repulsed.

Austrians appeared likely to take the ville with elements from 2 divisions attacking 3 points, but Murat's troops weathered the storm (some punishing artillery fire disordering cavalry + infantry at strategic points).

At the end Klenau had to decide whether to keep pushing or withdraw to fight again another day?

Attached battlefield sketches by the author show progress. 

Austrian initial attack

Victory by elite armoured cavalry with prospect of further exploitation

French lead brigade still holding ground.

Cavalry on Austrian left threaten French right.

Massed Austrian attack takes control of a sector of Liebertwolkwitz.

French counter-attacks re-gained most of lost ground.

The official umpire's report on an entertaining game is awaited eagerly.

Mitch's method

Following on from my previous post, Mitch has sent me some notes about his painting method as well as some photos of figures in progress and some beautiful completed ones.

Over to you Mitch.

(captions to his photos by me)

Hi, Mitch here.

As there has been a bit of interest, I thought I might give a description of the method I use, along with some pics.

First I clean up the figures with a pointy hobby blade.

Getting rid of mold lines is more important with this method of painting.  Although they can be semi hidden later.

Next paint the whole figure black. Matt/satin is best as gloss is harder to dry brush on, I think.

When give the figure a heavy dry brush in dark-ish grey.

The best, & cheapest brush for this is a make-up brush.

They were quite cheap at K-mart in a pack.

Otherwise, a big brush of size 6+ is good & quick.

As you no-doubt know old bushes are probably better for this.

Some tools of the trade. Brushes for dry brushing and coke bottle cap for holding the figure.

The trick is to get the right amount of paint on the brush.

I use a piece of paper to wipe the excess off the brush & you can quickly 'refuel' the brush by soaking up the smear on the blotting sheet.

With the fine bushy hairs you can dry brush at high speed, sweeping over the entire figure.

I normally sweep around the figure 2 or 3 times, until I am happy I have highlighted all the detail, but not filled in too much of the black.

Give the figure an hour or so to dry, but overnight is better.

 Figures after dry brushing with the one in the centre still showing its black undercoat.

A closer look at the Prussian cuirassier figure. 

Next, I repeat the dry brushing process with white.

This is a lighter coat, not getting into the deeper recesses but picking up all the highlights & flat surfaces.

Once again, I sweep over at least twice.

There is a line between too much & not enough & you never know until you cross it. :)

After this you should have a sort of greyscale paintjob on the figure.

You can stop the prep process right now, but If you are fussy (like me).  You will come back with a fine white brush & camouflage any little black mold lines or other bits that on one else will notice.

I use cheap hobby acrylics for all this prep.

There are some quite nice ones in tubes, made for artists, & there even cheaper options.

Originally, I experimented with various things to colour-in the figures but quickly discovered pigmented inks.  These gave much stronger colours than normal inks, removing the need to apply, especially lighter colours, more than once.

I became quite adept of mixing up the basic 8 or so colours to get the military shades I wanted.  I have quite a collection of swatches, yellow is by far the most used colour in the mixes, it seems.

But nowadays we have Contrast paints (by GDW) & Speed paints (Army painter).

I am using these for most colours now.

Completed Prussian cuirassiers. These are 1/72 scale, 3D-printed figures.

This time a 1/72 scale Austrian limber by Hat.

It is easy & quick to paint with inks, speed paints also live up to their name.

Not having to keep within the lines so accurately, already having things like backpack straps already picked out & painted plus other things James has mentioned all help.

Cheers

Mitch.

The piéce de résistance: Polish line infantry.  The 6th, I do believe.

Chiefly Strelets figures, apart from the central officer and drummer who are from Italeri.

I was astounded that Mitch had painted the white outline on the backpacks (which are amongst the excellent detail in these Strelets figures). He explained that it was all a bit of a 'cheat' as he had simply filled in the back pack of the dry-brushed figure (with a little bit of touch-up of the white, I presume).

 

Thanks for these notes and lovely photos Mitch. I found it useful and I'm sure that others will too. Or just enjoy the pixies!!

Paint less, rub more

Mitchell you are a genius!

This post is about changes to how I will paint. These 13th Polish hussars, painted under the previous regime, have had the base coat applied and are ready for black wash highlights/details and then varnish. They are about as good as I can do.

I have not been this excited about painting since the first time that I painted figures as a young fella and marvelled at them 'coming to life' with each added colour. So excited in fact that I have felt compelled to stop painting and to post about it.

After Mitch, this fella was the genesis of all this. You see a poorly painted figure (if you can seen anything at all in the top photo thanks to be choosing a textured backdrop!), I see blue that was easy to apply and the first details (crimson) that were easy to pick out.

It came about because of a wonderful discussion that Mitch and I had after the game last weekend, when everyone else had left (except Steve W. who quickly became bored with our conversation and left the room!). It was one of those indulgent, endless discussions that wargamers can have about figures, collections, painting, conversions, uniforms and so forth.

On the subject of painting, and hearing about how many figures I (still) aim to get done before I can paint no more, Mitch suggested, as he has once previously, that I adopt his inking approach. I said that I did not think it was for me. While I love his painting and think his figures look excellent, the brightness of the inks does not suit my eye/bias. Crucially, I asked him to show me exactly what he does. Just as well. I thought that I understood, but it turned out that I did not!

He described the process and then showed me a figure that had been undercoated, dry-brushed grey and then dry-brushed white. After this he simply applies ink to the relevant parts of the uniform, the ink settles in the lower sections, raised sections remain and instant highlights and shading result. Inking is a quick process and one does not have to worry too much about missed bits as they are covered by the shading/lining effect of the undercoat/dry-brushing. There are always a few touch-ups required, of course, to sort out overlaps or crucial missed bits.

It is marvellously simple and ingenious.

You clever painters will no doubt be well aware of this already. "Everyone uses it now," Mitch said, "I should have copyrighted it when I started doing it twenty years ago!" Whatever the veracity if that statement, it is a beaut and elegant method and he has been painting that way for ages. "Still, not for me," I said "as I don't like the colouring of the inks."

Then I slept on it.

I have not changed the way that I paint in over 30 years. I was introduced to the idea of an undercoat, base coat, dry brush technique by Marcus, an artist fellow at the wargame club in Perth. Naturally, he produced absolutely sensational looking figures. Painting figures is an easy bit of colouring in compared with actual painting. I could never emulate him but the approach was one that I really liked.

I have tweaked it a bit over the years, and it now consists of undercoat, base coat, black wash and then highlights (rather than dry brushing). The only real change was when I was made aware of Paynes' grey# as an undercoat in place of black. What a ripper colour it is. Beaut for mixing too; especially skin tones.

I have always painted slowly. My approach, with its double handling does not help this, but I could not see my way past it as it gives a look that I like and enables me to paint to the best of my limited ability.

Thinking further about what Mitch had said and shown me I thought, "What if I add in the dry brushing? This should help to lighten my figures [which tend to be dark, even after highlighting], may make applying the base coat easier, will help with the application of the always fiddly and time-consuming 'white bits' and may even obviate the need for highlighting." Worth a go for sure.

I considered that the Polish cavalry that I am finishing off were to advanced to try it, so I would have to wait until I get to the infantry. I was sorting through the Polish infantry this morning and found a dismounted Polish general that I had missed. Better chuck him in with the cavalry, artillery and generals that I am painting. Hang on. What if I have a go at that dry brushing post-undercoat thing?

Some figures representing the 3rd uhlans, done in the old style. These are towards the end of the base coat stage.

I did, then applied some blue to his coat (even used a bit of ink that I have, just to see) and I liked the effect. So, I slapped on some dry brushed grey and white to figures I have to represent the 9th, 12th, 15th and 16th Polish uhlan regiments that are a bit behind the others in the production line. They still need their blue coats, shabraques and such done (let alone all the other bits). Happy with the aforementioned officer, I duly applied blue to them. Oh yeah. So much easier, looks much better. This is good.

Figures representing the 16th uhlans with grey then white 'rubbed' on.

Figures representing the 9th uhlans with blue plus some details added; new method to left, old to right.

Figures representing the 12th uhlans with blue applied post-dry brushing.

The same figures at left, plus two representing the 15th uhlans to their right, one of whom has some details of the cramoisi facings added.

Thanks Mitch!

The idea of 'tricking the eye' when painting was pointed out to me several years back. The best that I have achieved has been the 'free' black lining that results from undercoating with Payne's grey. This 'new' approach takes this up a notch or three. You only need to paint the main areas. Any missed bits are shaded beautifully by the combination of the Payne's grey, grey and white. The dry brushing 'lifts' the detail making it easier to paint and, in turn, requiring less paint to be applied. 

I am now wishing that I had not progressed so many of my figures to 1/2–7/8ths completed!

I was already feeling reasonably confident that I'd be able to make serious inroads into the masses of figures that I wanna paint, but that confidence has now doubled.

I 'hatched' a new plan (for myself), to the ever-changing order that I reckon I'll paint figures. I have decided to make my next batch a combination of sufficient Polish infantry, Saxons and Austrians to have a go at a game of Raszyn with brigade-scale rules.

L'affaire d'un déjeuner are 'simple rules for games of the black powder period 18th–19th centuries'. They were initially conceived for brigade scale (around 1 000 infantry and 500 cavalry per base) and published in Vae Victis no. 138 over just three pages of the magazine (including photos and tables). They have since been expanded** to four pages of text plus a one-page quick reference sheet and a sheet of some markers (available as a free download to Vae Victis 158) and include suggestions for regimental and even battalion scales. I suspect that brigade remains the 'sweet spot' for such a simple system and that's what I'll be trying in due course. There are reports of several games on 'Borodino's superb Un Soixante-Douze blog.

(**The 'expansion' added more detail to the text, but did not change the rules.)

I am also sufficiently confident of my future production of painted units that I can 'reveal' this:

The situation and the equations

Proportion of figures currently painted 10%

Annual painting output required if have;

• 20 years (unlikely) — 2 965 figures

• 15 years — 3 953 figures

• 10 years — 5 930 figures

Better get me skates on!!

#Addendum—Payne's Grey

Jackson's (UK), the arts supplier, has an article about Payne' s grey on the web blog. I have copied the first few paragraphs below.

Payne’s Grey is made up of a mixture of pigments that combine to make an alternative to black. It is usually very dark in masstone, and reveals very blue undertones when diluted. Payne’s Grey can be found in almost every oil, acrylic and watercolour range – proof of its popularity. This article explores where the colour originated, and how it can be used in the palette.

The History of Payne’s Grey

Payne’s Grey was created by the British painter William Payne. William Payne was born in Exeter, Devon, in 1760 and found acclaim in London as a watercolour tutor. Along with the creation of Payne’s Grey, he is also credited with the technique of splitting a wet brush to make different marks for foliage, and using the side of a dry brush to make rock-like textures in the foreground (perhaps we can think of him as an 18th century Bob Ross?). He was criticised by the ‘serious’ painters of the time for apparently reducing painting to a step-by-step, easy-to-use approach. It should be noted, however, that his mark-making methods were not new. Chinese landscape painters were certainly using these techniques with their brushes in the 15th century, if not long before.

His primary legacy, however, is the colour Payne’s Grey. It is a deep, stormy grey with a distinctly blue undertone. The ‘original’ colour, used by Payne himself, appears to have been a mixture of Prussian Blue (some sources say it was Indigo), Yellow Ochre, and Crimson Lake.

His paintings may not be well-known today, but it’s interesting to reflect on the legacy that this British painter continues to have. The vast majority of watercolour, oil, and acrylic ranges carry Payne’s Grey, evidence of its continued demand. Today, a ready-mixed Payne’s grey varies from range to range, so its hue is not consistent across brands.